Tech Talk #56: Skincare actives, skin cycling and cosmetic tattooing

In this tech talk we’ll run you through:

• What to skincare / active ingredients to look out for
• How these actives impact the skin
• When to stop skincare actives before cosmetic tattooing

The scenario:

You have given your client new brows, full lips, or eyeliner. A few weeks later, the pigment hasn’t just faded the usual ~30%... Instead it’s patchy, faded or hasn’t healed true. Why?
 
You question your technique, needle depth, pigment, and the client’s skin. What else could it be?

Let’s look at skincare products and medications, and what needs to be paused before cosmetic tattooing!

Some active ingredients in skincare products can thin skin, accelerate cell turnover, or increase bleeding, leading to poor pigment retention, blurred lines, or unpredictable colour shifts.

Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives)

The effects of retinoids are generally well known. Retinol, Tretinoin, Retin-A, Adapalene, and oral Isotretinoin (Accutane) all thin the epidermis, making it highly delicate and prone to micro-trauma. Increased bleeding during the treatment is common, and retinoids can chemically alter the pigment colour as it heals, with rich browns going ashy grey or orange.

When to stop: Stop all topical retinoids at least 4 weeks prior to the appointment. Oral Accutane generally requires a 6 to 12 month wait.

Chemical exfoliants (AHAs and BHAs)

Glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and malic acid dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together (desmosomes), stripping away the stratum corneum and thinning the skin. Tattooing freshly exfoliated, thinned skin is a recipe for patchiness. It compromises the technician's ability to implant the pigment at consistently correct depth.

When to stop: Discontinue use around the treatment area 2 to 4 weeks before the procedure.

Skin lighteners and acne treatments

Hydroquinone, benzoyl peroxide, and kojic acid act as bleaching agents. If present in the skin, they cannot distinguish between natural hyperpigmentation and tattoo pigment, leading to unintended bleaching or rapid fading of the PMU.

Benzoyl peroxide severely dries out the skin, creating a poor canvas for tattooing.

When to stop: Stop 2 to 4 weeks prior to the appointment.

Blood-thinning supplements & medications

Not a skincare ingredient, but very important when it comes to healing and unexpected results!

Most importantly, the decision to stop any medication that is under prescription should only be taken with medical advice. Non-prescription medications and dietary supplements including aspirin, Ibuprofen, fish oil (Omega-3), vitamin E, and niacin thin the blood, causing excessive bleeding and lymph production during the tattoo process. Blood physically pushes the cosmetic pigment out of the open skin, resulting in faded, patchy pigment that won't hold.

When to stop: Stop supplements one week before and avoid NSAID pain relievers (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) 48 to 72 hours before the procedure.

Did this Tech Talk help? If you want more information about the skin, cosmetic tattooing contraindications or how pigments behave in the skin, there is a world of knowledge in the units of the Diploma of Cosmetic Tattooing!