Tech Talk #40: Acids, glycolic acid and pigment removal

Non-saline PMU removal: Acids, glycolic acid and their role in pigment removal

Liquid-based removal products are either saline or acid-based. Tech Talk #34 on saline versus glycolic for removal summarised the differences. Some technicians refer to all removal liquids as “saline” BUT that couldn’t be further from the truth.

Tattooing an acid into the face sounds scary… we know this. The perception of the word acid is something we are working very hard to get people to understand. And that’s what we are going to do today! We’ll discuss:

• What is an acid?
• About glycolic acid
• Acids and their role in PMU pigment removal

What is an acid?

Acids are complex substances that play a role in many aspects of everyday life. From battery acid and lemon juice to coffee, they are all acidic. On the widely used pH scale, acids have a value below seven – the neutral point – with lower numbers indicating stronger acidity. Various factors including bond strength and electronegativity influence the strength and behaviour of these substances.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is used a lot in cosmetics. Why? Because it has a small molecule that can penetrate and be accepted by the skin, can be finely adjusted in terms of strength, and is compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. Other acids such as lactic acid have quite a big molecule and are difficult to work with.

Fun fact — glycolic acid is actually typically derived from sugar cane! It is much more skin friendly than the term 'acid' might lead you to believe.

Acids and their role in PMU pigment removal

Do acids dissolve pigments? The answer is a bit complicated, because pigments have changed, and most removal products have not. When pigments were typically made of black, red, and yellow iron oxides, an acid-based product might dissolve them.

Now, most pigments are organic (or at least organic and inorganic colourant mixtures) and would not be dissolved by a mild acid. Technically speaking, an acid strong enough to dissolve organic pigments would rip through the skin and cause third degree burns…

Not only have pigments changed, but recent research has worked out how tattoo pigment is retained in the skin. It is encapsulated in immune system cells called macrophages (Greek for ‘big eaters’). We just recently covered all things ‘Macrophage’ and pigment encapsulation in our last Tech Talk #39 if you are curious.

BONUS: THink Pigment Remover’s role in pigment removal

So, now enters THink Pigment Remover. We’ve discussed acids and their inability to dissolve the pigment itself (without the third degree burns), so how does THink Pigment Remover (a non-saline, glycolic acid based removal solution) work?

Well, it is specially formulated to trigger the macrophages to release their encapsulated stores of pigment particles. Once the encapsulation is broken, the pigment can then flow to the surface in the removal liquid and exudate (lymph fluid). It’s a wonderful thing to watch!

Discover more about THink Pigment Remover on our new website dedicated to all things cosmetic tattoo pigment removal!