Tech Talk #49: Traction Alopecia - What, Why and Treatment Options

Traction alopecia is an increasing issue, likely attributed to the popularisation of tight hairstyles, chemical hair relaxant treatments and lack of awareness surrounding traction alopecia. This Tech Talk will dive into the causes, how to prevent it and cosmetic treatment options for clients.

What is Traction Alopecia?

Traction-induced alopecia is the recession of the hairline due to chronic traction, or hair pulling. This usually results from hair being tied back tightly or due to the weight of very long hair.

The applied trauma is often unintentional but rather a part of cultural, religious and/or occupational practices. The continual tension on the hair follicles weakens then until they are pulled out or die off.

How does Traction Alopecia occur?

Continual tension on the hair follicles weakens them and causes inflammation, eventually leading to miniaturisation and, in extreme cases, permanent scarring. The hairline on the forehead and temples are the most common areas to be affected, however it may involve other sections depending on specific hairstyles. High risk styles include:

• Tight ponytails,
• Pigtails,
• Dreadlocks,
• Tight braids,
• Buns (yes, unfortunately even your slick back bun may be a silent contributor)

Repetitive tension of the hair follicles can also be attributed to the weight of very long hair or hair accessories, with the risk intensifying when chemical and heat hair relaxants are involved.

Can you fix Traction Alopecia?

Typically, traction alopecia is a manageable disorder if detected and acted on in its early stages when the hair follicles remain intact. At this point, it is recommended that people opt for looser hairstyles, decrease their use of chemical treatments and hair tools that damage hair health.

However, prolonged and excessive tension without any intervention will lead to irreversible destruction of the hair follicles and permanent alopecia. Fortunately, this hair loss can be camouflaged using scalp micropigmentation (SMP)!

How Scalp Micropigmentation can help!

Scalp micropigmentation is a cosmetic procedure that involves tattooing tiny dots on the scalp to mimic the look of a closely-shaved head, to create the illusion of hair density for those experiencing hair loss, or to camouflage scars on the scalp. Sometimes, hair strokes are used as opposed to follicle simulation! This technique is well-suited to African American men and women who may often wear their hair tightly in braids.

For fairer skins and non-black hair colours, the use of SMP needs to be carefully considered and the client talked through the restrictions of hairstyles if they are going to have SMP on the hairline and temples. Follicle SMP Pigment in Brown is also a great option for these clients!

What to learn more about SMP?

If you are interested in adding scalp micropigmentation to your current skillset, check out the Diploma of Cosmetic Tattooing offered by THink Aesthetics! Scalp Micropigmentation (SMP) is one of the elective specialisations, and our SMP unit is loaded with theory and information you are unlikely to find anywhere else!

THink Aesthetics also offers a course dedicated to SMP, that covers the knowledge and techniques needed to excel in this growing field (this is a non-accredited specialised course)! Check it out here